A geologist’s front-row seat to Greenland glacial melt

"Never in my career as a geologist have I seen moraines so fresh and stark — and sad."

IN THE AREA OF KULUSUK, EAST GREENLAND — As we approached the glacier, mountain guide David Gladwin lost his footing in deep mud. “Go left!” he called with a laugh as his boot sank ankle-deep. Gladwin is an internationally certified mountain guide, and we were in the midst of terrain only vaguely mapped and rarely explored. We veered left, following his instructions. Gladwin pulled his foot out but managed only a few more steps before he sank again, this time deeper. His boots looked like they’d been dipped into liquid concrete.